A quick way to see Tohoku is to ride the Resort Shirakami, Japan’s most scenic train. It was a ride we couldn’t miss, after reading so much about it.
Resort Shirakami is a train?
It’s not your typical resort. Resort Shirakami is like a resort on wheels, rolling through some of the most breathtaking views along the JR Gonō Line (JR五能線). The Gonō Line is known for its incredible coastal views of the Sea of Japan and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakami-Sanchi (白神山地).
Designed for travellers who love slow, scenic journeys, the train features huge panoramic windows, relaxed seating, and even cultural performances onboard. That’s why it is known as one of Japan’s JR East’s 13 Joyful Trains. Beyond a means of transportation, the Joyful Trains highlight the journey as a joyful ride across Japan’s scenic landscapes and offer tourists an opportunity to experience its culture and food.
(Watch this video by JR East for a glimpse of the Resort Shirakami experience.)
The journey
Resort Shirakami runs from Aomori to Akita, with a total of 23 stops along the route. The full journey takes about 5hr and passes through many popular and scenic locations such as Hirosaki, Lake Jūniko (Twelve Lakes), Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen and Senjōjiki Coast.
There are three main trains – Buna, Aoike and Kumagera – each has its own distinct flavour.
Buna: Featuring warm wood tones and natural colours, it celebrates the beech forests iconic to Shirakami-Sanchi.
Aoike: Inspired by the deep blues and whites of the Sea of Japan and the famous Aoike Pond in Lake Jūniko.
Kumagera: Named after the rare black woodpecker found in Shirakami’s forests, its orange-yellow exterior evokes the Gonō Line’s stunning sunsets.
Each train has observation rooms in the first and fourth cars, and special box seating in the second car – ideal for groups.
Special experiences onboard
What makes the Resort Shirakami truly memorable is the cultural touch:
Depending on the service, you may get to enjoy performances of Tsugaru Shamisen (a traditional Japanese string instrument), storytelling in the local dialect, or even puppet shows.
Tips for riding the Resort Shirakami
- Check the train schedule: The Resort Shirakami is a seasonal train running both ways – Aomori to Akita and Akita to Aomori. Plan accordingly.
- Reserve your seats: Reservations are required. You’ll need to purchase both a “Basic Fare” ticket and a “Reserved Seat” ticket. If you have a JR East Pass, the ride is included, and seat reservations can be made online or at JR train stations.
- Break up your journey: Five hours is a long ride. Consider stopping overnight somewhere along the way, such as Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen, a seaside resort where you can soak in outdoor hot springs by the Sea of Japan.
- Grab an ekiben: Don’t miss the chance to try a local ekiben, Japan’s famous train station lunchbox – delicious, unique, and part of the travel experience.
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Our itinerary
We didn’t ride all the way to Akita. Instead, we rode the Resort Shirakami from Aomori and disembarked at Lake Jūniko to explore the area, which is part of the Tsugaru Quasi-National Park and the Shirakami Mountains. (I’ll share about Lake Jūniko in my next post!)
Along the way, the train made a 15-min stop at Senjōjiki Coast, where we got off to explore the beautiful coast and snap some photos. When it’s time for everyone to get onboard the train, the train master will sound the “choo choo” to alert everyone.
On our return journey from Lake Jūniko, the train also stopped at Fukaura, a perfect spot for those hoping to catch the sunset over the Sea of Japan.
Views of Senjōjiki Coast
We were also fortunate to experience the shamisen performance by two musicians which was quite an eye-opener. Many came forward to see the performance and were snapping away or taking videos to record these memories.
Our thoughts
The Resort Shirakami was an interesting experience for us. It would have been nice if we could ride the entire stretch but well… Akita wasn’t in our plans this time round. I do feel, though, that the journey could benefit from a few more stops where passengers can get off to explore the surroundings a little more. Still, we’re really glad we had the chance to experience it.
Maybe next time, if we return to the region, we’ll try the Tohoku Emotion — the restaurant train we’ve heard so much about!
Here’s a selection of photos I took from the train. I hope they inspire you to take your own journey aboard the Resort Shirakami!
