Tag: JR East

  • Aboard Resort Shirakami: A scenic journey through picturesque Tohoku

    Aboard Resort Shirakami: A scenic journey through picturesque Tohoku

    A quick way to see Tohoku is to ride the Resort Shirakami, Japan’s most scenic train. It was a ride we couldn’t miss, after reading so much about it.

    Resort Shirakami is a train?

    It’s not your typical resort. Resort Shirakami is like a resort on wheels, rolling through some of the most breathtaking views along the JR Gonō Line (JR五能線). The Gonō Line is known for its incredible coastal views of the Sea of Japan and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakami-Sanchi (白神山地).

    Designed for travellers who love slow, scenic journeys, the train features huge panoramic windows, relaxed seating, and even cultural performances onboard. That’s why it is known as one of Japan’s JR East’s 13 Joyful Trains. Beyond a means of transportation, the Joyful Trains highlight the journey as a joyful ride across Japan’s scenic landscapes and offer tourists an opportunity to experience its culture and food.

    (Watch this video by JR East for a glimpse of the Resort Shirakami experience.)

    The journey

    Resort Shirakami runs from Aomori to Akita, with a total of 23 stops along the route. The full journey takes about 5hr and passes through many popular and scenic locations such as Hirosaki, Lake Jūniko (Twelve Lakes), Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen and Senjōjiki Coast.

    There are three main trains – Buna, Aoike and Kumagera – each has its own distinct flavour.

    Buna: Featuring warm wood tones and natural colours, it celebrates the beech forests iconic to Shirakami-Sanchi.

    Aoike: Inspired by the deep blues and whites of the Sea of Japan and the famous Aoike Pond in Lake Jūniko.

    Kumagera: Named after the rare black woodpecker found in Shirakami’s forests, its orange-yellow exterior evokes the Gonō Line’s stunning sunsets.

    Each train has observation rooms in the first and fourth cars, and special box seating in the second car – ideal for groups.

    Special experiences onboard

    What makes the Resort Shirakami truly memorable is the cultural touch:

    Depending on the service, you may get to enjoy performances of Tsugaru Shamisen (a traditional Japanese string instrument), storytelling in the local dialect, or even puppet shows.

    Tips for riding the Resort Shirakami

    • Check the train schedule: The Resort Shirakami is a seasonal train running both ways – Aomori to Akita and Akita to Aomori. Plan accordingly.
    • Reserve your seats: Reservations are required. You’ll need to purchase both a “Basic Fare” ticket and a “Reserved Seat” ticket. If you have a JR East Pass, the ride is included, and seat reservations can be made online or at JR train stations.
    • Break up your journey: Five hours is a long ride. Consider stopping overnight somewhere along the way, such as Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen, a seaside resort where you can soak in outdoor hot springs by the Sea of Japan.
    • Grab an ekiben: Don’t miss the chance to try a local ekiben, Japan’s famous train station lunchbox – delicious, unique, and part of the travel experience.

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    Our itinerary

    We didn’t ride all the way to Akita. Instead, we rode the Resort Shirakami from Aomori and disembarked at Lake Jūniko to explore the area, which is part of the Tsugaru Quasi-National Park and the Shirakami Mountains. (I’ll share about Lake Jūniko in my next post!)

    Along the way, the train made a 15-min stop at Senjōjiki Coast, where we got off to explore the beautiful coast and snap some photos. When it’s time for everyone to get onboard the train, the train master will sound the “choo choo” to alert everyone.

    On our return journey from Lake Jūniko, the train also stopped at Fukaura, a perfect spot for those hoping to catch the sunset over the Sea of Japan.

    Senjōjiki Coast
    Senjōjiki Coast
    Senjōjiki Coast

    Views of Senjōjiki Coast

    Tsugaru Shamisen

    We were also fortunate to experience the shamisen performance by two musicians which was quite an eye-opener. Many came forward to see the performance and were snapping away or taking videos to record these memories.

    Our thoughts

    The Resort Shirakami was an interesting experience for us. It would have been nice if we could ride the entire stretch but well… Akita wasn’t in our plans this time round. I do feel, though, that the journey could benefit from a few more stops where passengers can get off to explore the surroundings a little more. Still, we’re really glad we had the chance to experience it.

    Maybe next time, if we return to the region, we’ll try the Tohoku Emotion — the restaurant train we’ve heard so much about!

    Here’s a selection of photos I took from the train. I hope they inspire you to take your own journey aboard the Resort Shirakami!

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  • Discovering Quintessential Aomori

    Discovering Quintessential Aomori

    Relaxing. Chilly. Quiet. If you have been to Tokyo, Aomori is the opposite. With fewer people and a slower pace, it truly feels like a getaway. Plus, it has a lovely bay area, if you like the sea.

    I took these photos during our early morning walks to catch the sunrise at the Aomori Bay, about a stone’s throw from Dormy Inn, where we stayed for four nights. Walking down, albeit almost freezing at 1°C during a November autumn morning, with your other half to view the glorious sunrise and the peaceful morning is pure bliss.

    Where is Aomori?

    Aomori

    Aomori is located at the northern tip of Japan’s main island, just south of Hokkaido. It is a large prefecture made up of 10 cities, 22 towns and 8 villages. Three regions make up the area. The Mrs and I visited two during our 20th wedding anniversary last autumn – the Tsugaru region which includes the cities of Aomori and Hirosaki and the Nanbu region with Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada. The third region is Shimokita which we didn’t have time for. The Aomori prefecture is part of the larger Tohoku region which also includes the prefectures of Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata, Fukushima, and Niigata. For more information on Aomori, visit here.

    Aomori in Autumn

    We visited Aomori in Autumn but we’ve been told that it’s also great in the other seasons. There’s something for everyone every season. Spring is great for Sakuras of course, especially at Hirosaki Castle and its park. In summer, there is the vibrant and colourful Nebuta Festival. Winter transforms Aomori, known as the snowiest city in the world, into a magical wonderland. And then there’s autumn with the beautiful red, orange and yellow foliage or “koyo” (紅葉) in Japanese. The trees almost glowed in golden sunlight. We found ourselves constantly pausing to take it all in. The air was crisp, and the colours were vivid—almost like walking through a painting.

    You can check here for Japan’s autumn foliage forecast. According to the forecast, the best time to view koyo in 2025 is between mid-November to late November. But the forecast may change nearer to the date. Autumn arrived late by about two weeks last year.

    Aoiumi Park in autumn
    The changing colours of the trees at Aoiumi Park – from green to yellow/orange to red – on 14 November 2024.

    Just chill and explore

    Aomori City is quaint. There are no mega malls or rows of big shopping centres like in the major cities of Tokyo and Osaka. Its streets are quite old-school, giving a laid-back, suburban vibe. In the streets near the Aomori station, when you hear a melodious chime, you know it’s time to cross the road. Yes, they are pedestrian crossing chimes. I can still hear the melody in my head – “Mi-So-Do-Mi-Re-Re-Do-Do-Ti-La-La…”. We love the tune! It’s as if we are transported back in time.

    There are many small shops, eateries, restaurants and cafes along its streets. There was one we kept going back to. It wasn’t anything fancy or one of those “must-eat” kind of places but whenever we were there, the place was packed. It was simply simple, affordable and tasty authentic Japanese food that just fills you after a long day out. That restaurant is Ootoya at 1-chōme-8-6 Shinmachi, Aomori, Japan, 030-0801. We love their Black Vinegar Chicken and Vegetables! There’s a recipe for this that I found on the internet. Have yet to try it.

    Another place that we love is this cosy little cafe – Coffee Marron at 2-6-7 Yasukata, Aomori 030-0803 Aomori Prefecture. It has a pretty high rating on Tripadvisor and Tabelog.

    Coffee Marron
    Coffee Marron

    Where to stay?

    We love onsens, so we love Dormy Inn Aomori! It’s so great after a long day out to soak in the hot baths and if you are game, they also have a little outdoor bath where you can soak under the chilly autumn night sky. 気持ちいい~!(Kimochi ii~! which means feels good or pleasant)

    Dormy Inn Aomori
    Dormy Inn Aomori

    Another wow factor for us is the… Apple Juice! I swear, after tasting the fresh Aomori apple juice, you won’t want to drink any other apple juice. The apple juice was really really good. We would drink it whenever we could. We wanted to buy packs of it back to Singapore and thought we would be able to find them easily in Tokyo on our way back. Big mistake. We couldn’t find any. We were sorely disappointed. So, if you love apple juice like us, please get them while you are in Aomori.

    We ended up scouring online stores from Singapore — yes, that’s how hooked we were. We ordered them online via Redmart – Seiken Japanese 100% Natural Aomori Apple Juice – and they weren’t cheap. It’s about S$7/pack. The other one we tried – JA Aoren Aomori Pure Apple Juice – which also tasted good was from Yukiyama via Lazada. That’s about S$8/bottle. They weren’t the same ones that we drank over there but they were still good. If you are in Aomori, try looking out for these two brands below. Dormy Inn Aomori serves them.

    Aomori apple juice
    Aomori apple juice

    So why is Aomori apple juice so good? That’s because Aomori produces 50 million tons of apples annually and they are among the world’s best in quality. I’ll share more about their apples in my next post.

    Oh, besides apple juice, Dormy also serves free coffee in the morning, free ice cream and probiotic drinks after the onsen, as well as a hot bowl of soba every night.

    This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on them and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!

    Getting to Aomori

    Aomori location

    You can take a domestic flight to Aomori from Tokyo which takes about 1hr and 20min, or you can get onto the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Shin-Aomori Station and connect to Aomori Station. We took the Shinkansen. Here’s what we did.

    1. Arrange luggage delivery to the hotel in Tokyo as we will be there for the latter part of our journey. You can arrange for the delivery at Yamato Transport, Terminal 3, 2F, Delivery Service Counter (open from 5.45am) after customs clearance, or at Terminal 2, 2F, Delivery Service Counter.
    2. Exchange JR East rail pass and book reservations for Shinkansen to Aomori at JR Office (open 6.45am), Terminal 3, 2F, after customs clearance or Terminal 2 Tourist Service Counter.
      • Tip: If you are going to be at Aomori or the Tohoku region for at least 5 days and travelling quite a bit within, I suggest getting the JR East Tohoku Area rail pass for about S$263 (adult) or S$131 (child) which is quite value-for-money as it provides unlimited travel across JR East lines, including local, limited express, and express trains, Shinkansen, Tokyo Monorail and buses etc. Or get the 6-day JR East-South Hokkaido Rail Pass for S$317 (adult) and S$159 (child) if you want to go to Hokkaido as well. The Hokkaido Shinkansen connects Hakodate city and Aomori city in one hour.
    3. Train Route: Haneda Airport to Aomori Station
    Taking train to Aomori

    There are many ways to get to Aomori via train. You can use Japan Travel to plan your routes. I find it pretty useful in providing me with detailed information and offers various options as well. The entire journey can take about 4 hr.

    Klook.com