Tag: Tohoku

Into the Blue: Discovering Lake Jūniko
If you’re visiting the UNESCO-listed Shirakami-Sanchi mountains, make sure to carve out time for Lake Jūniko (十二湖).

Lake Jūniko was formed in 1704 when a major earthquake blocked the mountain streams. Jūniko means 12 lakes in Japanese. From the summit of Mt. Ozukure (1,458m), the Ōkuzure Observation Deck offers a panoramic view of 12 bodies of water, giving the area its name. However, the region is actually home to 33 lakes and ponds, among the most famous being the blue pond Aoike. Lake Jūniko is one of those places in Japan where you feel time slows down, and nature whispers a thousand secrets.

The mirror lake reflections – no matter the angle, the view was just marvellous.

Can you hear its secrets?

We were struck by how idyllic Lake Jūniko felt – the stillness, the serenity. It had a completely different energy compared to Oirase Gorge. At Oirase Gorge, you’re guided by the constant, melodic rush of the stream at every turn. But here, at Lake Jūniko, it’s the rustling of the leaves and the gentle chorus of birdsong that accompany your steps. Both leave you hanging for more. Indeed, we could just sit there, basking in its tranquility.

Forest Bathing

Forest Bathing

Forest bathing or Shinrin-yoku, is the Japanese practice of spending therapeutic time immersed in nature. A walk through the serene paths of Lake Jūniko is exactly that – a respite from the fast pace of urban life that so many of us crave for our mental well-being.

Treat yourself well. You’ve earned it.

You’ve made it this far, so give yourself permission to slow down. Don’t rush.

Listen to the chirping of the birds,

Watch the ducks glide across the glassy blue waters,

Breathe in the crisp, clean air.

It’s the simplest and purest gift nature offers.

Getting There

From the JR Jūniko Station, you can either walk to Lake Jūniko, which takes around an hour, or grab a 15-min Kōnan bus (弘南バス) ride – Jūniko Line (十二湖線) – to the trail entrance. The bus operates between late April and November. Depending on how you want to explore the area, get off at either Ōike (王池前) or Oku Jūniko Parking (奥十二湖駐車場). There is a bus schedule that you can refer to here.

Hiking trails

Its hiking trails are popular with visitors. A 40-min route starting from the souvenir shop Mori-no-Bussankan Kyororo takes visitors to Aoike, Ketoba-no-Ike Pond, lush beech forests, Wakitsubo-no-Ike Pond (沸壺の池) and Ochikuchi-no-Ike Pond (落口の池).

Aoike (青池) is an emerald blue pond. If you’re lucky, the sun shining through the trees will make the waters of Aoike glisten even more vividly.

Ketoba-no-Ike Pond (鶏頭場の池) is one of the largest lakes in the area. Its shape of the lake is said to be in the shape of a chicken’s head – if you view it from a helicopter or a mountain lookout. Hence, the name Ketoba.

There are also longer trails you can consider. I’ve done a simple illustration of the two routes.

Photography tips
1. Chase the reflections
  The stillness of the lakes makes for perfect mirror-reflection shots. Early mornings or late afternoons are the best times to capture these.
2. Try low, shoot wide
  Consider using a wide-angle lens if you are using a DSLR or set your mobile phone to wide mode to capture the expansiveness of the forest and its canopy or the vastness of the lakes. Try kneeling or placing your camera close to the water’s edge for a more immersive, layered shot.
3. Focus on details
  Besides the big lake shots, zoom in on leaves floating on water, tree bark textures, or the play of light through the beech trees on the forest path. These small moments add richness to your story.
4. Capture candid connections
  Bring your photos to life by including people interacting with the environment —friends walking along the beech path, someone pausing in awe by Aoike, or hikers immersed in conversation. These human moments add warmth and relatability.
5. Respect the silence
  Let the mood guide your photography. The stillness and serenity of Jūniko come across best when you capture it without overediting—embrace the soft shadows and natural tones.
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24 April 2025
Aboard Resort Shirakami: A scenic journey through picturesque Tohoku
A quick way to see Tohoku is to ride the Resort Shirakami, Japan’s most scenic train. It was a ride we couldn’t miss, after reading so much about it.

Resort Shirakami is a train?

It’s not your typical resort. Resort Shirakami is like a resort on wheels, rolling through some of the most breathtaking views along the JR Gonō Line (JR五能線). The Gonō Line is known for its incredible coastal views of the Sea of Japan and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakami-Sanchi (白神山地).

Designed for travellers who love slow, scenic journeys, the train features huge panoramic windows, relaxed seating, and even cultural performances onboard. That’s why it is known as one of Japan’s JR East’s 13 Joyful Trains. Beyond a means of transportation, the Joyful Trains highlight the journey as a joyful ride across Japan’s scenic landscapes and offer tourists an opportunity to experience its culture and food.

(Watch this video by JR East for a glimpse of the Resort Shirakami experience.)

The journey

Resort Shirakami runs from Aomori to Akita, with a total of 23 stops along the route. The full journey takes about 5hr and passes through many popular and scenic locations such as Hirosaki, Lake Jūniko (Twelve Lakes), Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen and Senjōjiki Coast.

There are three main trains – Buna, Aoike and Kumagera – each has its own distinct flavour.

Buna: Featuring warm wood tones and natural colours, it celebrates the beech forests iconic to Shirakami-Sanchi.

Aoike: Inspired by the deep blues and whites of the Sea of Japan and the famous Aoike Pond in Lake Jūniko.

Kumagera: Named after the rare black woodpecker found in Shirakami’s forests, its orange-yellow exterior evokes the Gonō Line’s stunning sunsets.

Each train has observation rooms in the first and fourth cars, and special box seating in the second car – ideal for groups.

Special experiences onboard

What makes the Resort Shirakami truly memorable is the cultural touch:

Depending on the service, you may get to enjoy performances of Tsugaru Shamisen (a traditional Japanese string instrument), storytelling in the local dialect, or even puppet shows.
Tips for riding the Resort Shirakami
- Check the train schedule: The Resort Shirakami is a seasonal train running both ways – Aomori to Akita and Akita to Aomori. Plan accordingly.
- Reserve your seats: Reservations are required. You’ll need to purchase both a “Basic Fare” ticket and a “Reserved Seat” ticket. If you have a JR East Pass, the ride is included, and seat reservations can be made online or at JR train stations.
- Break up your journey: Five hours is a long ride. Consider stopping overnight somewhere along the way, such as Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen, a seaside resort where you can soak in outdoor hot springs by the Sea of Japan.
- Grab an ekiben: Don’t miss the chance to try a local ekiben, Japan’s famous train station lunchbox – delicious, unique, and part of the travel experience.
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Our itinerary

We didn’t ride all the way to Akita. Instead, we rode the Resort Shirakami from Aomori and disembarked at Lake Jūniko to explore the area, which is part of the Tsugaru Quasi-National Park and the Shirakami Mountains. (I’ll share about Lake Jūniko in my next post!)

Along the way, the train made a 15-min stop at Senjōjiki Coast, where we got off to explore the beautiful coast and snap some photos. When it’s time for everyone to get onboard the train, the train master will sound the “choo choo” to alert everyone.

On our return journey from Lake Jūniko, the train also stopped at Fukaura, a perfect spot for those hoping to catch the sunset over the Sea of Japan.

Views of Senjōjiki Coast

We were also fortunate to experience the shamisen performance by two musicians which was quite an eye-opener. Many came forward to see the performance and were snapping away or taking videos to record these memories.

Our thoughts

The Resort Shirakami was an interesting experience for us. It would have been nice if we could ride the entire stretch but well… Akita wasn’t in our plans this time round. I do feel, though, that the journey could benefit from a few more stops where passengers can get off to explore the surroundings a little more. Still, we’re really glad we had the chance to experience it.

Maybe next time, if we return to the region, we’ll try the Tohoku Emotion — the restaurant train we’ve heard so much about!

Here’s a selection of photos I took from the train. I hope they inspire you to take your own journey aboard the Resort Shirakami!
24 April 2025
The ebbs and flows of Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada’s beauty
This was the reason why we wanted to come to Aomori. Once again, it was the travels of Singapore’s Mediacorp artistes Jeremy and Jessica that sparked our wanderlust – their visit to Oirase Gorge (奥入瀬渓流) on the Double J Baecation programme drew us in immediately.

Oirase Gorge is a must-see when exploring Aomori and the Tohoku region. It is a mesmerising 14km of unspoiled natural beauty. From cascading waterfalls to mossy rocks and winding trails alongside crystal-clear streams, it’s the perfect escape away from the hustle and bustle of daily life into Japan’s serene countryside.

Whether you’re a nature lover, photographer, or just looking to breathe in fresh air, Oirase Gorge promises an unforgettable experience.

Our trail: From Kumoi-no-taki Falls to Lake Towada

The entire Oirase trail stretches 14km, from Yakeyama to Nenokuchi, where Lake Towada appears in full splendour. It takes about 5 hr to walk the full trail – but like most, we started somewhere midstream, at Kumoi-no-taki Waterfall.

Waterfall highlights:
- Soryu Waterfall
- Choshi Otaki Falls (the largest waterfall in the gorge)
- Kumoi-no-taki Falls
- Shirakinu Waterfall
- Tamadare Waterfall
Tip: To truly experience its beauty, stay at least for a night , like at the Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel. It’s pricey but oh, so worth it.

We began our trek at 9.30am. On paper, it is a 2-hr journey to Nenokuchi. We took a leisurely 3-hr walk with photo stops and rest stops.

The place is massive, which would be too much to cover in a single day. This was our first experience there but we’ll be sure to return to experience the rest of it!

Lake Towada (十和田湖, Towadako)

Lake Towada and Oirase Gorge are part of the larger Towada Hachimantai National Park. The lake was formed by volcanic activity about 200,000 years ago and is known for its deep blue waters. To enjoy its breathless scenery, hop on a sightseeing boat to immerse yourself in the different views of the lake and its luscious mountains. There are two routes with about 5 to 6 rides each day between April to November. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for this.

Some photography tips
- Go early:
  I like to work with natural light. Mornings are good as the sun isn’t too hot and the light is not so harsh. If you are willing to sacrifice sleep to rise up early, daybreaks are nice as they make for colourful skies. Early mornings are also a good time to capture light rays peeking through the forest foliage.
- Bring a tripod (if you can):
  Oirase Gorge is famous for its flowing streams and waterfalls. A tripod helps you capture that silky water effect with slower shutter speeds. Even a mini tripod works if you prefer to travel light! Or if you have sturdy hands, you could still attempt to shoot a few seconds of long exposure.
- Mind your footing:
  Trails are easy to follow but can be slippery or rocky in places and some run close to the stream. Wear good walking shoes and take your time.
- Experiment with angles:
  Instead of shooting everything straight on, try low angles, near the stream or frame your shots through tree branches. Go wide to also capture the expansive woods and the grandeur of towering trees, or the vastness of Lake Towada.
- Capture the details:
  Besides the big waterfalls, don’t forget the little scenes — mossy rocks, colourful maple leaves, winding streams. Sometimes the small moments tell the best stories.
- Golden hour
  If you can stay till sunset, the colours over Lake Towada are breathtaking. The warm light adds a soft glow to everything — perfect for dreamy landscapes.
- Watch your time and enjoy:
  It’s easy to get caught up and forget about time sometimes. As Oirase Gorge is huge, do keep track of time and where you are. Take note of the bus schedule and its pick-up locations so that you can catch a ride back. Buses are not very frequent if they are off-season. Walking back could take another 2 hr or more, depending on how much ground you need to cover. We would know because we missed the bus. But luckily, we met a very kind restaurant owner at Lake Towada who helped us to call for a cab and even luckier when a Taiwanese couple who stayed at the same hotel spotted us and asked to share the ride with us. Cabs are expensive in Japan, you see.
Scan this QR code which gives a very good illustration of the Oirase Gorge walking trail, featuring the various highlights along the way and the walking time required.

Image source: JNTO

🌿 Remember: There’s no “perfect” shot. It’s about capturing how the place makes you feel.

Here’s the Double J Baecation episode if you are interested to see Oirase Gorge through their eyes.

There’s a sense of peace and tranquillity at Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada that’s hard to put into words — it’s in the whisper of the stream, the golden dance of autumn leaves, and the reflections on a still lake.

If you’re planning a trip to Tohoku, don’t miss this little slice of paradise.

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20 April 2025
Apple Kingdom ~ Hirosaki City Apple Park
As I’ve mentioned in an earlier post, Aomori is the land of apples. So naturally, a trip to Aomori wouldn’t be complete without visiting Hirosaki City Apple Park.

The park spans a massive 9.7 hectares and has about 2,300 apple trees of 80 varieties. When we arrived at the park, it was apples galore — bright, red, and juicy! The cool, crisp morning was perfect for a walk in the orchard and, of course, some apple-picking.

Pick your own apples

Yes, you get the pick your own apples here! While admission to the park is free, the apple-picking experience costs 1,000 yen per 1 kg (approximately 3 apples) and is available from August to November.

It’s an experience worth trying. You need to sign up at the Apple House for the activity and the staff will bring you on a short guided tour — helping you pick the juiciest apples straight from the trees. And trust me, the apples are really juicy.

A walk among apples

Do you see many small red fruits above? If you’re thinking they’re cherries — they’re not! They are Crabapples, part of the 80 varieties of apples they cultivate in the park. Aren’t they a pretty sight?

When you are done with the apple picking, don’t just go off yet. Take time to enjoy the fresh air and the beautiful scenery. We took time to walk around the place for a bit and took in the wonderful landscape before us. And we were blessed with a majestic view of Mt Iwaki.

Don’t leave without…

Before heading off, be sure to explore the Apple House. It has over 1,200 apple-related products, from jams to snacks to souvenirs. You can also find the JA Aoren brand of apple juice there. Even if you miss the opportunity, fret not, many of the items are also available in shops around Aomori and Hirosaki, for instance at A-Factory or the JR Aomori and Hirosaki train stations.

If you are interested to know more about Aomori apples, read here.

Getting to Hirosaki City Apple Park

The park opens daily from 9am to 5pm. Here’s how we got there using our JR East Pass.
1. From JR Aomori Station: Take Limited Express Tsugaru from JR OU Line to JR Hirosaki Station (30min).
2. At JR Hirosaki Station: Exit via the Central Exit and head to bus stop no. 6.
3. Take the local bus (20min, 300yen/pax), get off at Ringo Kōen (check bus timetable). Buses depart every 30 minutes from 9am to 4pm.
4. From there, it’s a short walk to the park.
If you like the idea of joining a day tour, check out some that I’ve picked out from Viator for consideration.

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14 April 2025
Discovering Quintessential Aomori
Relaxing. Chilly. Quiet. If you have been to Tokyo, Aomori is the opposite. With fewer people and a slower pace, it truly feels like a getaway. Plus, it has a lovely bay area, if you like the sea.

I took these photos during our early morning walks to catch the sunrise at the Aomori Bay, about a stone’s throw from Dormy Inn, where we stayed for four nights. Walking down, albeit almost freezing at 1°C during a November autumn morning, with your other half to view the glorious sunrise and the peaceful morning is pure bliss.

Where is Aomori?

Aomori is located at the northern tip of Japan’s main island, just south of Hokkaido. It is a large prefecture made up of 10 cities, 22 towns and 8 villages. Three regions make up the area. The Mrs and I visited two during our 20th wedding anniversary last autumn – the Tsugaru region which includes the cities of Aomori and Hirosaki and the Nanbu region with Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada. The third region is Shimokita which we didn’t have time for. The Aomori prefecture is part of the larger Tohoku region which also includes the prefectures of Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata, Fukushima, and Niigata. For more information on Aomori, visit here.

Aomori in Autumn

We visited Aomori in Autumn but we’ve been told that it’s also great in the other seasons. There’s something for everyone every season. Spring is great for Sakuras of course, especially at Hirosaki Castle and its park. In summer, there is the vibrant and colourful Nebuta Festival. Winter transforms Aomori, known as the snowiest city in the world, into a magical wonderland. And then there’s autumn with the beautiful red, orange and yellow foliage or “koyo” (紅葉) in Japanese. The trees almost glowed in golden sunlight. We found ourselves constantly pausing to take it all in. The air was crisp, and the colours were vivid—almost like walking through a painting.

You can check here for Japan’s autumn foliage forecast. According to the forecast, the best time to view koyo in 2025 is between mid-November to late November. But the forecast may change nearer to the date. Autumn arrived late by about two weeks last year.

The changing colours of the trees at Aoiumi Park – from green to yellow/orange to red – on 14 November 2024.

Just chill and explore

Aomori City is quaint. There are no mega malls or rows of big shopping centres like in the major cities of Tokyo and Osaka. Its streets are quite old-school, giving a laid-back, suburban vibe. In the streets near the Aomori station, when you hear a melodious chime, you know it’s time to cross the road. Yes, they are pedestrian crossing chimes. I can still hear the melody in my head – “Mi-So-Do-Mi-Re-Re-Do-Do-Ti-La-La…”. We love the tune! It’s as if we are transported back in time.

There are many small shops, eateries, restaurants and cafes along its streets. There was one we kept going back to. It wasn’t anything fancy or one of those “must-eat” kind of places but whenever we were there, the place was packed. It was simply simple, affordable and tasty authentic Japanese food that just fills you after a long day out. That restaurant is Ootoya at 1-chōme-8-6 Shinmachi, Aomori, Japan, 030-0801. We love their Black Vinegar Chicken and Vegetables! There’s a recip e for this that I found on the internet. Have yet to try it.

Another place that we love is this cosy little cafe – Coffee Marron at 2-6-7 Yasukata, Aomori 030-0803 Aomori Prefecture. It has a pretty high rating on Tripadvisor and Tabelog.

Where to stay?

We love onsens, so we love Dormy Inn Aomori! It’s so great after a long day out to soak in the hot baths and if you are game, they also have a little outdoor bath where you can soak under the chilly autumn night sky. 気持ちいい～！(Kimochi ii~! which means feels good or pleasant)

Dormy Inn Aomori

Another wow factor for us is the… Apple Juice! I swear, after tasting the fresh Aomori apple juice, you won’t want to drink any other apple juice. The apple juice was really really good. We would drink it whenever we could. We wanted to buy packs of it back to Singapore and thought we would be able to find them easily in Tokyo on our way back. Big mistake. We couldn’t find any. We were sorely disappointed. So, if you love apple juice like us, please get them while you are in Aomori.

We ended up scouring online stores from Singapore — yes, that’s how hooked we were. We ordered them online via Redmart – Seiken Japanese 100% Natural Aomori Apple Juice – and they weren’t cheap. It’s about S$7/pack. The other one we tried – JA Aoren Aomori Pure Apple Juice – which also tasted good was from Yukiyama via Lazada. That’s about S$8/bottle. They weren’t the same ones that we drank over there but they were still good. If you are in Aomori, try looking out for these two brands below. Dormy Inn Aomori serves them.

So why is Aomori apple juice so good? That’s because Aomori produces 50 million tons of apples annually and they are among the world’s best in quality. I’ll share more about their apples in my next post.

Oh, besides apple juice, Dormy also serves free coffee in the morning, free ice cream and probiotic drinks after the onsen, as well as a hot bowl of soba every night.

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Getting to Aomori

You can take a domestic flight to Aomori from Tokyo which takes about 1hr and 20min, or you can get onto the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Shin-Aomori Station and connect to Aomori Station. We took the Shinkansen. Here’s what we did.
1. Arrange luggage delivery to the hotel in Tokyo as we will be there for the latter part of our journey. You can arrange for the delivery at Yamato Transport, Terminal 3, 2F, Delivery Service Counter (open from 5.45am) after customs clearance, or at Terminal 2, 2F, Delivery Service Counter.
2. Exchange JR East rail pass and book reservations for Shinkansen to Aomori at JR Office (open 6.45am), Terminal 3, 2F, after customs clearance or Terminal 2 Tourist Service Counter.
  - Tip: If you are going to be at Aomori or the Tohoku region for at least 5 days and travelling quite a bit within, I suggest getting the JR East Tohoku Area rail pass for about S$263 (adult) or S$131 (child) which is quite value-for-money as it provides unlimited travel across JR East lines, including local, limited express, and express trains, Shinkansen, Tokyo Monorail and buses etc. Or get the 6-day JR East-South Hokkaido Rail Pass for S$317 (adult) and S$159 (child) if you want to go to Hokkaido as well. The Hokkaido Shinkansen connects Hakodate city and Aomori city in one hour.
3. Train Route: Haneda Airport to Aomori Station
There are many ways to get to Aomori via train. You can use Japan Travel to plan your routes. I find it pretty useful in providing me with detailed information and offers various options as well. The entire journey can take about 4 hr.

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10 April 2025